By Leah Eskin
Affogato means drowned, and it’s a distressing thing to witness after dinner. Innocent vanilla ice cream, cowering in a cup, is doused with scalding espresso. Way too “Game of Thrones.”
The Italian dessert is supposed to serve up contrast: hot and cold, sweet and bitter, vanilla and espresso. But the hot shot melts the cold scoop, yielding lukewarm coffee soup.
I called in rewrite. In this version, the ice cream keeps its cool in a chilled glass. It’s lavished with coffee custard and finished with a swirl of whipped cream.
Maybe the dish veers toward all-American sundae. But it makes for a very happy ending.
Prep: 15 minutes | Cook: 3 minutes | Makes: 4 sundaes
1 pint vanilla ice cream
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon water
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
1/2 cup strong coffee or espresso, hot or cold, caf or decaf
1/3 cup heavy cream
2 ounces best-quality milk chocolate, chopped
2 tablespoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons coffee liqueur
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Freeze: Scoop 4 ounces ice cream into each of 4 small glasses. Freeze.
2. Whisk: Drop yolks and water in a bowl and whisk briefly. Keep handy.
3. Melt: Dissolve espresso powder in coffee. In a medium saucepan, heat coffee, cream, chocolate, sugar and salt over medium heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves and chocolate melts.
4. Temper: Whisk a little of the coffee mixture into yolks. Whisk yolks back into coffee mixture, and cook over medium heat until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 3 minutes. Stir in coffee liqueur and vanilla. Strain this custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a large glass measuring cup. (Makes about 1 cup coffee custard.)
5. Serve: Pour 3 to 4 tablespoons hot coffee custard over each serving of ice cream. Top with a spoonful of whipped cream. Enjoy.